Friday, November 13, 2009

Fashion Group International's Presentation and Panel Discussion with Donna Karan as Moderator




Today I attended Fashion Group International's presentation and panel discussion on Spring/Summer 2010 Trend Overview with Sabina Les, (a fabulous silk scarf designer), my new buddy, who is my neighbor and also a member of Collective-E. Donna Karan was the special guest moderator and on the panel was Lincoln Moore, VP of Handbags and Accessories at Saks Fifth Avenue, Linda Fargo, SVP of Bergdorf Goodman, Jane Larkworthy, Beauty Director at W Magazine, Ikram Goldman of Ikram boutique in Chicago, (who also dresses Michelle Obama) and Candy Pratts Price, Executive Fashion Director of Style.com.
To start, Donna asked the question, "What is the designer's role in retail stores?" Lincoln said that what helps his Saks customers are designers that are active and go to the store and speak to their customers. It makes the customer feel better when he/she has that personal relationship with the designer and also understands the value of what he/she is buying.
Ikram also added that it is important when the designer (if they are present) and sales staff talk about the fabrics and the cost and help the customer understand and learn why he/she is spending the money they are on one outfit and to also remind them it is a "buy now, wear forever!"
Donna also addressed the problems designers are facing with all the mark downs at the stores and the impact it is having on the luxury goods market. Linda said that what they have been doing at Bergdorf is buying less of each item, "less is more," she said. This helps to put the value back into luxury, if there aren't so many items, it makes the item appear more special and it will cut down the mark downs. Candy also agreed that less is more and she also added that it helps when the stores "entertain their customers." Customers want to hear the story and want that personal relationship. I completely agree with this. I am more likely to buy at places where I either know the designer, or believe and/or admire his/her story or have a relationship with a salesperson at a store. It is pleasant and it feels good, I think everyone wants to do what makes them feel good... Why not?
Donna also touched base on how there is too much information out there and how it is affecting the customers and the stores. Ikram agreed with Donna that there is a downside to "too much information" because an item loses it's luster when it is spoken about and seen too much in the press and in turn, the customer doesn't want to buy it, because he/she is over the item!
She says she gives her customers "surprises" to combat this problem. Surprises like offering items that weren't shown on the runway. She also mentions she has been very fortunate in this aspect because designers have been willing to work with her to create these pieces for her customers. Lincoln added that he agrees with Ikram and it is harder for Saks to have that kind of relationship with their customer because they are bigger and have a wider range of customers. Lincoln said "it is a double-edged sword because customers want what is on the runway that second and they can't get it." So this can be troublesome with sales because the customer wants what they saw in the fashion show and not what is out on the floor. He combats this problem by "re training" his staff to speak to customers on the value of the product rather than focusing on the brand.
Linda pointed out one advantage of having "too much information" is that it has brought in people globally all over the world to her store. Linda also said she doesn't think it is going to change, but on a positive note said that about 70% of their business is done on pre collections, meaning that they buy and sell pieces from designers that are not in the fashion shows. She says these items have a natural sell through, don't have to go on sale and she is happy that the designers don't have the pressure of performance on the pre collection items, as they do with the runway pieces. Donna, of course, mentioned she loved selling pre collection for this very reason! Donna said the pre collection items have a longer shelf life and sell more because people aren't sick of it!
The overall consensus for the Spring/Summer 2010 lines is that they are going to do very well. Linda felt there were enough compelling trends to discuss with customers, Lincoln was thrilled with it and Ikram feels that there is a "notion of a dream with the lines, no longer dressing to kill, but dressing to be beautiful."
One key point that Jane Lankworthy mentioned, (when Donna asked about how are "we" supposed to feel good about wearing these clothes we see on the runway, when we are not those models on the runway) is that beauty comes from within, no matter what outfit we have on. It is the way we feel about ourselves. I completely agree with this, I think WE wear the outfit. No matter what fabric, style or designer you may be wearing, if your attitude and energy isn't exuding goodness, the outfit alone doesn't have the power to make you shine.
So, as you can see, I learned a lot today from this panel discussion, which was very insightful!
Great presentation by FGI and great questions from Donna and candid answers from everyone on the panel. Thanks to everyone for another educational and inspiring day!:)

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